#KeeperoftheDay – Molly O’Neill, 1952-2019. Please read Kim Severson and Neil Genzlinger’s remembrance of one of our favorite chroniclers of food.
“Ms. O’Neill, who came of age when the seeds of the modern farm-to-table movement were being planted, became a keen observer of what she called the ‘essential tension in the American appetite,’ which to her mirrored the conflicts in American culture. It was a tension between the refined and the lowbrow, the processed and the natural, ‘the civilized and the wild,’ she wrote in “American Food Writing: An Anthology With Classic Recipes” (2009), which analyzed 250 years of American culinary history.”