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Chronicling A Culture - Cookbooks,
Music and Photography |
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It was the occasion of King's
mother, Shireen Ichaporia's, 90th birthday that made Niloufer
sit down and begin to really collect and organize her recipes
and stories into a book. The book is riveting; the glossary
alone reads like a travelogue of India and the subtropical
world. Her recipes open a whole new world for cooks. And
with these dishes, one is creating a meal while also taking
part in a small act of preservation. Carlo Petrini, the founder
of Slow Food in Italy, said that preserving a traditional
cheese is as important as preserving a 16th-century building.
So it is with King, a kind of Parsi Sheherazade, who never
really cooked until she left India and came to America, and
then felt compelled to cook, chronicle and preserve the food
of her home. |
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Niloufer's collection of recipe books and
notebooks. On the left, her school cooking class notebook,
1957
and in the middle her notebook with recipes and notes
from near and far. |
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Niloufer writes, " We had cookery lessons
in school and at home, I did a lot of recreational cooking
(cakes, soufflés,
salads, etc) when allowed. So I was not a total innocent when
I entered the phase of cooking every day in a new country.
I taught myself Parsi and other Indian food from the first
edition of the Time and Talents
cookbook in combination with
recipes from my mother’s cook, Andrew de Souza. My interests
in the food of everywhere else were served by devouring what
was available at the library and by subscribing to Gourmet
which was the only magazine of its type in the early sixties." |
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(left) Time and Talents
Club Recipe book, 1959. (rt) The ZSM Cookbook - a collection
of recipes from the good ladies
of the Zoroastrian Street
Mandal in Hyderabad and Secunderabad.' |
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We discovered photographer
Sue Darlow and her collection of books and
photographs chronicling Parsi culture and cooking at ANOTHER
SUBCONTINENT, an online forum, who's mission is to
foster understanding of South Asian society and culture. Visit
her work online. These cookbooks are from Sue
Darlow's collection. "Most,
if not all the contributions are by Parsis, but the recipes
include all kinds of Indian dishes, Parsi ones, and 'Continental'
ones beloved of Bombay's Parsi hostesses. There is even
a chapter on Prize Winning, Subsidiary and Antiwaste
Dishes which includes Egg on Banana Skin and Dehydrated
Cabbage Salan with dry fish or prawns." writes Sue
Darlow. |
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Sooni
Taraporevala,
best known as a scriptwriter ("Salaam
Bombay" and "Mississippi Masala")
is also a photographer and has published
a book of her portraits with essays and interviews to give
a modern view of Zoroastrianism, chronicling
the religious road of this community in her book, PARSIS: The
Zoroastrians of India: A Photographic Journey. |
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MUSIC |
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As with all the Hidden
Kitchens stories, we started searching for the right
music. The first thing we discovered is that the conductor
Zubin Mehta and the late Freddie Mercury of Queen are both
Parsi, but there is no "Parsi" music. There is
music from Persia, from Gujarat, from Bombay, from India.
None of these were the soundtrack of King's childhood.
King loves music. Food and music are central to her world.
"I studied Western music," she says. "Classical
music. Haydn, Mozart, Schumann, Chopin. I started piano at
the age of 6. That was Parsi music for me. I did not grow
up listening to Indian music. We never heard it in school
except for right on the edges. If a village band went by,
the nuns used to say 'Oh, that dreadful racket.'" King
began listening to Indian music once she moved to the U.S.,
just as she began cooking Parsi food once she was here. |
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Our music search led us to Harmonia
Mundi and their World
Village collections of Persian and Indian music, including
Shujaat
Husain Khan and Aruna
Sairam and the compilation,
Without
You, Masters
of Persian Music. World Music freak
Joe Boyd and Brian Cullman led us to the haunting singer
Reza
Shajarian and the kamanche playing (a kind of spiked
violin) of Ghazal. |
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The music heard in the story came from
several of the soundtracks of Indian film legend Satyajit
Ray, and also from a collaboration of Ry Cooder with V.M.
Bhatt, from their album A Meeting by the River.
"For me food and music are just completely interrelated
and I see planning a menu in musical terms," King says. "When
I make birthday cakes for people, what do they want? Mozart,
Schubert, or Brahms? Mozart may be a hazelnut meringue. Brahms,
chocolate, deep and dark and orange." |
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Copyright © 2006
The Kitchen Sisters
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